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Город-сказка, город-мечта: карта удовольствий Москвы
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Москва ― не просто город. Это причудливая комбинация запахов, вкусов, звуков, света. Это аромат шоколада от кондитерской фабрики, закат, который окрашивает дома в персиковые оттенки, звуки жилых районов, где до сих пор можно услышать, как на лавочках болтают бабушки, а местные дети гоняют мяч. В совместном проекте с «Галс-Девелопмент» мы собрали на карте места Москвы, которые пробудят разные органы чувств.
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НАЖМИТЕ НА ТЕГ, ЧТОБЫ УВИДЕТЬ ВСЕ МЕСТА И УЗНАТЬ ДЕТАЛИ
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Выйти из дома и почувствовать разлитый в воздухе запах шоколада. Это не мечта, это реальность жителей Замоскворечья. В районе до сих пор работает шоколадная фабрика «Рот Фронт». Свою историю она начала почти два века назад с семейной кондитерской по производству карамели купцов Леновых.
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Направо пойдешь ― ощутишь запахи специй. Налево пойдешь ― душистых трав, которые разложены на прилавках сочными пучками. А еще на Даниловском рынке, который первым в столице пережил реконструкцию и стал гастрономической достопримечательностью, можно уловить запахи фо-бо, трюфельного масла, карри и многого другого.
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Masa Madre, которая находится на первом этаже Дома московского купеческого общества на Солянке, манит запахами кофе и свежей выпечки. На открытой кухне здесь пекут тартины, багеты, бриоши и булочки с корицей, которые наполняют пространство невероятным ароматом.
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Буквально через реку от Солянки, в Замоскворечье, где в воздухе разлит запах шоколада, находится клубный дом de luxe класса «Космо 4/22». Его изюминка — фасад начала XX века, который взят за основу парадного корпуса со стороны Космодамианской набережной. Всего же в комплексе 73 квартиры площадью от 43 до 174 м² включая 10 пентхаусов с потолками до 7,6 м и личными террасами. Из окон открываются панорамные виды на Кремль, Москву-реку и высотку на Котельнической набережной. А внутри ― патио для отдыха на свежем воздухе, которое украсят мраморные копии львов Медичи. В подземной части здания для жильцов оборудован двухуровневый паркинг с зоной для электромобилей
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Цветочный магазин «Собран в саду»
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Кадки с нарциссами, охапки сирени, душистые пионы. Витрины цветочной студии «Собран в саду» на Петровке неизбежно притягивают взгляд. Сквозь них можно понаблюдать за работой флористов, которые собирают архитектурные букеты, или разглядеть гигантский стеклянный холодильник, в котором хранят цветы.
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Если начать разглядывать витрины Чайного дома на Мясницкой, зависнуть можно надолго. Здесь есть старинные банки из-под чая, фарфоровые чашки и даже гусь, который держит в клюве авоську. Интерьеры внутри впечатляют не меньше, а история магазина насчитывает уже больше века.
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ЦУМ сегодня уже больше, чем просто магазин. Его семиэтажное здание с фасадами в стиле московской неоготики, построенное в 1907‒1908 годах, ― объект культурного наследия. Витрины ЦУМа меняются в зависимости от сезона, но неизменно привлекают внимание модными образами и множеством деталей.
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Эту улицу еще во времена Пушкина называли «московской витриной Парижа». Сюда приезжал за покупками весь бомонд. Считалось, если куплено на Кузнецком ― значит, самое лучшее. Прошло время, а эта улица по-прежнему ассоциируется с роскошной жизнью. На пересечении с Рождественкой по обе стороны от знаменитого здания Банка XIX века будет расположен комплекс клубных домов de luxe класса «Рождественка 8». Его концептуальная архитектура семи клубных домов от бюро «Цимайло Ляшенко и Партнеры» вдохновлена историей этого места. Фасады из натурального камня светлого оттенка идеально встраиваются в цветовой код окружения, а белый ригельный кирпич внутренних корпусов ― оммаж палатам Тверского подворья XVII века внутри двора.
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Воды здесь в избытке ― есть и пруды, и протекающая поблизости Москва-река. И все это у стен старинного Новодевичьего монастыря. Он был основан в 1524‒1525 годах князем Василием III, а в сентябре 1812 года здесь побывал Наполеон. Отступая от Москвы, французы пытались взорвать монастырь, но, по легенде, большую часть фитилей, подведенных к бочкам с порохом, залил начавшийся дождь.
Воды здесь в избытке ― есть и пруды, и протекающая поблизости Москва-река. И все это у стен старинного Новодевичьего монастыря. Он был основан в 1524‒1525 годах князем Василием III, а в сентябре 1812 года здесь побывал Наполеон. Отступая от Москвы, французы пытались взорвать монастырь, но, по легенде, большую часть фитилей, подведенных к бочкам с порохом, залил начавшийся дождь.
Воды здесь в избытке ― есть и пруды, и протекающая поблизости Москва-река. И все это у стен старинного Новодевичьего монастыря. Он был основан в 1524‒1525 годах князем Василием III, а в сентябре 1812 года здесь побывал Наполеон. Отступая от Москвы, французы пытались взорвать монастырь, но, по легенде, большую часть фитилей, подведенных к бочкам с порохом, залил начавшийся дождь.
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Спроектированный автором парижского Центра Помпиду Ренцо Пьяно ГЭС-2 ― не только современный музей с березовой рощей во дворе. Это еще и зона у воды перед центральным входом, где можно посидеть со стаканчиков кофе и понаблюдать за течением Москвы-реки. А еще здесь установлена скульптура швейцарца Урса Фишера «Глина № 4», которая в свое время наделала немало шума.
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Возводить речной вокзал на севере Москвы начали в 1930-е годы. А после открытия он стал первым в СССР, куда горожане приезжали просто отдохнуть. «Вокзал был модным местом тогдашней Москвы. Здесь все было как в кино. Пришедшие словно попадали в курортный город: залитые светом галереи-террасы, пальмы в кадках, чистый речной воздух, замечательный вид на водохранилище, белоснежные теплоходы и катера», ― рассказывают экскурсоводы. Почти сто лет спустя это место такое же романтичное. Здание вокзала было отреставрировано пять лет назад, и сегодня здесь так же приятно гулять у воды, как раньше.
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В начале 40-х годов прошлого века здесь были главные водные ворота Москвы и индустриальный центр столицы. Но все течет, все меняется ― скоро здесь будет новый современный район с самой протяженной набережной с понтонными бассейнами, «парящим» променадом, зонами отдыха. А с вокзала на речном трамвае уже сейчас можно добраться до ЗИЛа, любуясь по пути живописными видами.
В 15 минутах пешком от реки строится жилой комплекс бизнес-класса «Адмирал». Это семейный квартал в 300 метрах от метро «Печатники» со школой, детским садом, зеленым бульваром с велодорожками, просторным закрытым двором.
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По официальным данным, в Москве живут 13,3 млн человек. Огромный мегаполис наполнен сотнями звуков: голосами горожан и навигаторов, которые указывают путь, стуком каблуков, шуршанием гравия на бульварах, «рычанием» машин, в том числе тех, что варят кофе. При этом в столице слышно и природу: щебет птиц, шум листвы, дождя и весенней грозы, капели в оттепель и скрипа снега в морозы.
У дворов столицы тоже есть своя «музыка». В них у подъездов щебечут бабушки, собачники обсуждают районные новости во время прогулок с питомцами, а дети шумят, играя на площадках.
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Крыша «Рабочего и колхозницы»
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Летом слушать живую музыку особенно впечатляюще на крыше павильона «Рабочий и колхозница» на ВДНХ. Знаменитый монумент создали для международной выставки 1937 года, которая проходила в Париже. Скульптурную композицию собрали в Москве, а после разделили на 65 частей и перевезли во Францию. С крыши павильона открывается красивый вид на ВДНХ и ее окрестности. А еще в закатных лучах летнего солнца здесь звучит джаз, фолк, классическая и электронная музыка.
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Орган кафедрального собора святых Петра и Павла
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Летом слушать живую музыку особенно впечатляюще на крыше павильона «Рабочий и колхозница» на ВДНХ. Знаменитый монумент создали для международной выставки 1937 года, которая проходила в Париже. Скульптурную композицию собрали в Москве, а после разделили на 65 частей и перевезли во Францию. С крыши павильона открывается красивый вид на ВДНХ и ее окрестности. А еще в закатных лучах летнего солнца здесь звучит джаз, фолк, классическая и электронная музыка.
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Если пройти от «ГЭС-2» по Софийской, Раушской и Космодамианской набережным, вы придете к Дому музыки и элитному жилому комплексу «Монблан». Его возводят на камерной Шлюзовой набережной ― прямо у воды. Неординарные формы кристаллической башни, придуманной архитектурным бюро «СПИЧ», притягивают взгляды горожан. Из ее окон и с террас пяти малоэтажных корпусов будут открываться панорамные виды на исторический центр Москвы и Замоскворечье. А малоэтажные секции уравновешивают образ комплекса. Приватный двор-парк на 7000 м² будет похож на альпийскую долину.
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«Коломенское» ― один из самых уютных московских парков. Чего только стоят его яблоневые сады, которые каждый год зацветают в конце весны. Деревья некоторых из них были посажены еще в XVII веке, когда село Коломенское служило загородной резиденцией государей. Сейчас парк переживает реконструкцию, а его исторические объекты ― реставрацию. Кстати, местная церковь Вознесения Господня ― объект всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО и один из первых каменных шатровых храмов России.
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Еще одно место для приятных прогулок наедине с собой ― парк усадьбы Кусково. Архитектурный ансамбль усадьбы, принадлежавшей роду Шереметевых, считается одним из шедевров русского классицизма. Изысканная архитектура и зеркальная гладь прудов ― все это служило декорацией, на фоне которой разыгрывались грандиозные театрализованные праздники столетия назад. Особенно пышными они были в честь приезда монарших особ. В Кусково бывала императрица Елизавета Петровна, польский король Станислав Понятовский и австрийский император Иосиф II. А Екатерина II посетила усадьбу шесть раз.
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В Печатниках, на берегу Москвы-реки, стоит старинный монастырь. Первые документальные сведения о нем относятся к далекому 1623 году. По одной из версий, свое название ― Перервинский ― он получил потому, что здесь Москва-река буквально «прервала» направление и повернула к Коломенскому. А еще здесь хранилась одна из самых почитаемых православных святынь ― икона Иверской Божией Матери, которую в 1908 году перенесли в часовню на Красной площади.
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В 2007 году в Москве появилась точка арт-притяжения. На территории бывшего пивоваренного завода «Московская Бавария», а позднее винного комбината виноградных и десертных вин, открылся центр современного искусства «Винзавод». В бывших цехах, где в прошлом варили пиво и бродило шампанское, разместились галереи и мастерские художников. А заведовал реконструкцией промышленных построек XIX века известный архитектор Александр Бродский.
Сегодня на «Винзаводе» — с десяток галерей, где кипит жизнь. Например, прямо сейчас в Цехе Белого и Цехе Красного проходит выставка «Границы видимости». На ней представлены работы 42 художников: от классической живописи и скульптуры до тотальных инсталляций и интернет-арта.
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В том же году, что и «Винзавод», арт-кластером стал «Красный Октябрь». Когда-то здесь находились цеха кондитерской фабрики фирмы «Эйнем», основанной в 1890-х годах. А сегодня преобладает культурная повестка. В начале 2022 года в здании одной из старейших в Москве электростанций открылся Дом культуры «ГЭС-2», через реку от него ― на Якиманской набережной ― в том же году заработала галерея «Бетон», а еще каждое лето во дворе бара «Стрелка» показывают актуальное кино.
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«Суперметалл» появился на месте советского ЦНИИ черной металлургии им. Бардина, в цехах и лабораториях которого создавались экспериментальные сплавы. В наследство от него новому пространству достались бетон, стекло, головокружительные десятиметровые потолки, массивные дубовые двери входных групп и гигантские площади. Сегодня на «Суперметалле» можно выпить кофе, побродить по магазинам, поработать в коворкинге. Или просто почилить под листьями многолетних крупномеров, которые привезли из закрывшейся оранжереи в Пушкине.
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Пройтись по Старой Басманной ― как перенестись в Москву прошлого с ее роскошными особняками и историями их обитателей. По одной из версий, улица была заселена мастерами серебряного дела, изготовлявшими басмы ― узорные украшения для окладов икон. По другой, жители слободы ― басманники ― выпекали особый сорт хлеба «басман», который отличался разными фигурками на верхней части корки. С XVII века строить здесь свои усадьбы начали московская знать и вельможи. Так, на Старой Басманной жили одни из богатейших людей своего времени ― купцы Бабушкины, владевшие шелковой и полотняной фабриками. Сегодня здесь разлит дух старой Москвы, «поймать» который уже не так просто. Но в Басманном районе он сохранился.
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А вот Бауманка после масштабной реконструкции как будто переносит в будущее. Исторические корпуса, разбросанные вдоль Яузы, объединили в единый научно-исследовательский кластер и возвели суперсовременный кампус с высотной доминантой. Главный архитектор Москвы Сергей Кузнецов назвал стиль обновленной Бауманки emo-tech, подчеркивая связь эмоциональной выразительной архитектуры и технологий.
В шаговой доступности от ведущего технического вуза страны находится «Дом 56». Это премиальный жилой квартал в Басманном районе. И у него с новым корпусом Бауманки одни создатели ― архитектурное бюро Pride. Три высотные башни «Дома 56» в стиле параметрической архитектуры добавляют футуристические нотки будущего всему району. Одна из фишек комплекса ― оптический эффект поворота зданий вокруг своей оси.
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